Up to Lamar Valley
On the second day we got up real early and drove all the way to the northeastern corner of the Park, known for the presence of many big mammals.
Before sun-up many places were still covered with ice and under the first warmth of the sun, veils of mist rose between the trees.
We made a stop at the Gibbon Falls, then drove on to a place where we had a good overview of the Caldera, the depression that is the very heart of Yellowstone. We could see all the way to the snowcapped Absaroka Mountains, Elephant Back Mountain, Mount Sheridan and the faraway Big Tetons.
We spotted and made photos of several big mammals besides the bisons:
pronghorn, bighorn sheep and elk.
Human spotting behaviour
As the day progressed and we moved further to the north-eastern part of the Park, the more we encountered bison and elk in the valley. We also saw some bighorn sheep and pronghorns. Knowing when there are big mammals to spot is easy: each time you see several cars at the side of the road and people looking in the same direction with binoculars and telelenses, you put yourself behind the lot and start doing the same. One time, we also started a look-out operation, without knowing it. We were parked at the side of the road to eat something, and cars started stopping near us, people looking around with their binoculars. We joked a bit about it, until I looked downhill and saw a band of elk following the river nearby...
Bison Paradise
Lamar Valley is really a paradise for bisons. We saw several large groups, some resting near the river, others moving along it. Now and then, single bulls crossed the road. Better stop and wait till they pass, you wouldn't like to have your car overturned by such a bulky animal, that is surprisingly fast when it starts to run...
Soda Butte, desert flowers and the road back west
We continued on the North-East Entry Road (US 212) to the
Soda butte, another witness of subterranean activity. Then we turned back in the direction of Mammoth.
On the way we found some
desert-like vegetation, quite unexpected in this region. We took a nap under some trees - the day had grown quite hot and the lack of sleep and getting up early made themselves felt. Then we finished the ride to Mammoth.
Mammoth village and the Beaver Pond Trail
When we arrived in Mammoth, we had our first look of the
White Mountain, the hotspring terraces made of pristine white travertine.
The village green was taken over by a dozen of
elk, cows with their calves, for their siesta. Park Rangers kept people away from the green. We had to cross the street because the elk apparently don't like to be disturbed.
We took a look at the Visitor Center and decided to go for the walk on the Beaver Pond trail. Bears were spotted further up the trail, so we were a bit wary. The trail moved up the side of a hill with a sparse forest, with many yellow Arnica and several other
flowers.
There weren't too many other hikers on the path and we were still feeling a bit under the weather because of our long voyage from Antwerp and a lack of walking exercise in the last months... and we didn't want to meet any bears just now (or ever) So after climbing the rather steep path for a km or two, we choose to go back down.
We then decided to go to the Norris geyser basin, that we had skipped the day before.
Bears !
On the way from Mammoth to Norris we finally had our
Bear Encounter, luckily we were inside our car!
Norris geyser basin
After our bear encounter, we got stuck in a traffic jam (yes, even in the National Park, but it was caused by roadworks), and finally got to the
Norris Geyser basin. We made the grand tour of the geysers and hotsprings there and then decided to return to our 'home' in West-Yellowstone. It had been a long day and we were tired and hungry.
On the road back to Madison, we encountered another small herd of bison. Apparently, they dwell here between Norris and Madison. Maybe they like that the water here is a bit warmer because of the hotsprings around?
We renewed the strange experience of two parallel worlds existing one next to the other. The
bisons crossing the road and apparently not 'seeing' the humans in their iron (or plastic) boxes.
After looking around in the village, we decided to return to the Three Bear Restaurant from the first night. This second visit was a disappointment. Although we got there about closing time the previous night, we were waited on by two ladies who did their utter best to make our dinner unforgettable. This second night, the two young people we were assigned to couldn't bother less about our meal or the atmosphere around it. What a bummer. The food didn't taste half as good as before.